Thursday, November 5, 2009
I Will Run To You
Tuesday, November 3, 2009
A Choice
It is about waking up each morning and choosing to love you. Each dawn, as if for the first time, to choose you beyond need or want; beyond craving or obligation.
And, if that choice takes us to matching rocking chairs on a porch, when we are old and gray, thousands of mornings from the first day, I want to look at you and know I was a choice for you too.
A.Leigh
I Am
Jealous of the thoughts that wake you at dawn.
Jealous of the stars that hear your wishes.
Jealous of the woman that holds your eyes.
Jealous of the light and the love,
that hold you deep inside.
A.Leigh
Surrender
A.Leigh
Thursday, October 1, 2009
Children of the Street
It was a pleasant but ordinary morning in Chico. One could sense the end of summer as fall impatiently waited on the porch. A gentle coolness hung in the air. In households all around town coffee gurgled on its descent into the glass pot as children pleaded for five more minutes with their dreams. People young, old, and in between awoke to do whatever it is they do on Wednesdays in September.
I was off to the Foundation. I had arranged for Sherry and Gary Holbrook to drop in for a visit. Our paths had crossed a few years prior to this morning through our international humanitarian work.
Sherry is the founder and director of Orphan Care International (OCI); a Chico-based nonprofit dedicated to assisting orphans and needy children around the world. One of the primary projects of OCI is a children’s orphanage called the Docsek Home in Mazabuka, Zambia. Some might call it a twist of fate that brought Sherry and Gary to Mazabuka in the first place.
In 2003, Sherry was in a quiet room at the Heathrow, London airport on her journey home from Ndola, Zambia. At the time, she was volunteering for a Canadian-based nonprofit working with orphanages there. After many months with that organization, Sherry realized the western decision-makers were quite detached from the children’s reality in the villages.
“The children would need shoes, and decision-makers thousands of miles from Africa would decide against shoes, strictly based on policy,” Sherry explained. “Worst of all, they were slowly westernizing the children without an understanding of the long-term implications. How would the children reintegrate into society when they left the orphanage?”
It was in this tired and slightly jaded state that Sherry heard her name being called from across the quiet room in the airport. It was a woman she knew from her international humanitarian circle. This woman was on her way back to the states after visiting an orphanage called the Doscek Home in Mazabuka.
For the next many hours, Sherry would learn all about the work at the Doscek Home, and the incredible dedication of its owners, Shern and Tabitha Kaumba.
By the time Sherry landed again on US soil her concept and motivation to establish Orphan Care International would already be in flight. She was determined to help and help differently than her Canadian counterparts. She was eager to get home and share with Gary what she had learned about the Doscek Home and the young Zambians, Shern and Tabitha, who ran it.
~ Mazabuka, Zambia (19 years earlier)
At the age of 12, Shern Kaumba was a child of the streets. His father had six children, yet he was the lone child of another mother. During those first 12 years of life, Shern was ostracized, ridiculed and eventually pushed out of his home.
“I had no choice but to try and make it on my own. I slept on the streets. There was no schedule. I ate if I could find food. If there was no food, I went hungry,” Shern explained.
Today, the 31-year-old Shern, shared with a quiet tone, details about his youth and the days and nights living on the streets of Mazabuka. In fact, his wife, Tabitha, now 26, also recalled seeing the young Shern on their shared village streets when she was a child.
“Even before she knew me, she cared for me,” Shern gently shared. “I remember Tabitha as a teenager, coming by and offering me food.”
After many months on the streets, feeling rejected and alone, Shern, just barely a teenager, decided to end his suffering.
“I tried three times to kill myself. I tried to overdose with drugs, then to be hit by a train, and finally I decided to throw myself in front of a truck.”
Yet, each time this boy eluded death. “After the third try I thought to myself maybe there was a reason I was still alive.”
With tears still wet on his cheeks, after being pulled to safety and away from the grill of the oncoming truck, Shern heard a woman calling to him. This would be the moment that changed his life forever.
“A car pulled up beside me and I heard a soft voice say, ‘What is wrong? Can I help?’”
That angelic voice was from a woman he would come to know as Sister Angela Daily. The woman on that same day would ask Shern what it was he needed and when the teenager replied with “an education” - it would be so.
Sister Daily not only paid for Shern to attend boarding school but university too. It was during these years that this son man finally learned what it meant to be loved and cared for. Shern would go on to get a teaching internship, and find the conviction to help other children living on the streets.
“There were children in the classroom that just looked differently from the others. There was a hurt inside of them,” Shern recalled. “They reminded me of where I had come from. They reminded me of my own suffering.”
That realization was the beginning of his work with orphans. A short time later, Shern would marry the woman who as a child brought him food on the streets.
That was six years ago.
“When I married Shern he was already caring for two orphans. Six months later we heard about a baby called Joshua.” Tabitha’s eyes lit up while letting Joshua’s name slip out of her mouth. She then shared the story of Joshua as we visited in my NVCF office.
“I was visiting a compound when I heard that a baby’s mother was near death. The baby’s father had died during the mother’s pregnancy,” Tabitha explained.
“There was no family left to care for the child, so I took him home. In fact, I took him straight to my parents’ home, and for three days they taught me how to care for a baby. Then I went back to Shern and our work began.”
Their work has not ceased.
Today, Shern and Tabitha care for 13 children at the Docsek Home, and have dreams of caring for many more. With new land they’ve purchased with the help of their “mother and father” - the Holbrooks -- they are working hard to make this dream come true.
“We’ve dedicated our lives to make sure no one else becomes a child of the streets,” Shern concluded.
[Originally published on www.chicosol.org; Republished in the UpState Business Journal, Oct. 2009]
Sunday, August 23, 2009
Promising Not to Forget
A hot summer evening in Chico set the backdrop for a conversation I had waited many years to have. The last time I was with Dr. Godwin Orkeh and Christian Nix, we were in a house built around an avocado tree on the hillsides of San Marco. This tree sat on the crust of Lake Atitlan, Guatemala.
That was seven years ago.
Sitting together again, my mind was flooded with memories of trekking up and down the mountainsides serving the indigenous, listening to their needs, and helping in ways we didn’t know we could - until we did.
However, on this August night, we rested comfortably in lounge chairs on my back patio, and reflected on the journeys we’d been on together and the near decade spent apart.
Godwin, the MD of our lot, had come to visit after finishing his fifth stint in Darfur, Sudan. He had gone in and out of the war-torn, refugee-saturated regions wearing badges from numerous NGO’s including Relief International, World Health Organization and the United Nations. Godwin helped those he could, and promised that the world had not forgotten their plight. His work was never completed but he slept peacefully knowing he was doing all he could.
As the sun made way for the evening stars, Godwin pulled out his baby blue United Nations passport, something I had only seen in the movies. He pointed out stamps that provided doorways to distant lands - Afghanistan, Pakistan and Somalia. And, with each stamp he shared stories that were harder and harder to fathom. Kidnappings. Malnutrition. Malaria. Death. He spoke about the pain of losing children whose lives could be saved for less than $4.
We cried a little. We laughed a little. We hardly noticed dawn arrive.
Christian, the Chinese medicine man, was in between his barefoot clinic in Chicago and his practice in San Marcos. He works in the village hospital and continues to teach the science of medicine in concert with the art of healing. After learning that Godwin had arranged a trip to Chico, he postponed his journey south for the weekend so we could be together.
Christian shared tales in Latin America that I longed to remember. The way time sits still. The way people celebrate what they have, rather than focus on what they do not. The understanding of abundance and generosity that comes so naturally for those people our world calls “poor”.
I asked if there was anything they would like to do while on US soil. After sitting quietly for some time, Godwin said, “I would like to share what is happening in Darfur. I would like my promise to the children to be true, for the world not to forget what is happening there.”
I knew our community would be eager to listen. More than that, I knew something Godwin would later tell me he never dreamed possible; we not only listened - we cared!
After numerous public radio spots and interviews with newspapers we had a party. Godwin and Christian got to meet, literally, dozens of people that are working to help others around the globe.
They met local independent business owner, Sherry Holbrook who supports an orphanage in Zambia. They met former swim instructor, Shirley Adams, who builds water-wells in developing countries. They met Manoah Mohanraj, a local public health manager, who also runs an orphanage in Southern India. They met a room full of Enloe Hospital’s doctors and nurse practitioners that travel around the world providing medical care -folks that care so deeply about out brothers and sisters around the world. They also met handfuls of community members who support causes here, at home.
As the weekend came to an end, Godwin and Christian walked up to me and said, “We know now.”
“What’s that?” I replied.
“Of all the places in the world you’ve been, we now know why you decided to make Chico home.”
[Published in the Upstate Business Journal, Sept. 09]
Tuesday, May 26, 2009
It's Not a Gay Issue
In a small rural town called Chico, California, about a 100 people gathered to support, protest, celebrate or mourn the California Supreme Court ruling on Proposition 8. I was there. So were many of my dear friends and colleagues. The relentless Northern California sun welcomed the rally's participants. The summer's modest afternoon traffic trickled by. The University students were long gone, and local pub patrons had just begun to tiptoe into their venues of choice. Presenters from as far away as Utah took the newly renovated city plaza stage to share their stories; their particular vantage point about this day - on this day.
However, for me, it started many months before.
It was clear autumn night, on the fourth day of November, two-thousand and eight. Unprecedented numbers of Americans waited in stretched lines to cast their votes, many young and old, engaging in our political process for the first time. As the sun bid farewell to the day and the electors began casting their golden votes, here at home and around the globe, people paused to listen. If you were quiet enough you could actually hear “hope” bounce around the atmosphere; like the sound of a sunrise or the first bloom after a long winter.
Many believe Senator Obama took the White House by a national mandate, commingling the old and predictable map of red and blue states into a sea of purple. A sea made up of people of all colors, religions, sexual orientations, politics and views. Yet, they had one history-making commonality on that November night. They chose an intellectual who wouldn’t shy away from being intelligent to appeal to the average. They chose a man encouraging unity not division; a leader promoting hope and not fear.
For many Obama embodies change. He stands where he stands today as a black man, not because he is black. I echo the thoughts of so many others when I say, he inspires me. I am even prouder today to be an American than I have been for the past thirty-two years.
Yet, amid all of this light there was a shadow on that cloudless day.
On the very same ballot that illustrated the pinnacle of change for a nation that once allowed slavery of a people based on the color of their skin, and denied equal rights to fifty percent of its population because of their gender - our largest state voted “yes” on a proposition of discrimination.
The most painful factor regarding the passing of Proposition 8 is not simply the narrow margin that it passed by but the untruths and lies that drove people to “yes”.
Simply put, there is no correlation between protecting the right of gays to marry and new curriculum in schools. None. They used our children to get their “yes”. They misled our parents to get their "yes". There is no correlation between protecting the rights of gays to marry and the tax-exempt status of our churches. None. They used and misled people of faith to get their “yes”.
Moreover, how can two citizens of the same state have different rights under the same constitution? We certainly can not give the majority a way to discriminate against a minority through ballot measures. James Madison articulated it best in the Federalist Paper 51, when he wrote, "It is of great importance in a republic not only to guard the society against the oppression of its rulers but to guard one part of the society against the injustice of the other part. If a majority be united by a common interest, the rights of the minority will be insecure.”
Fortunately, our courts are here to protect minorities against the unfair will of majorities, if and when needed. Will they get this right eventually? We know that even the highest court of our land ruled on the wrong side of equality at one time. In 1857 when the US Supreme Court, led by Chief Justice Robert B. Taney, declare that all blacks – slaves as well as free – were not and could not become citizens of the United States. But, they found their way to justice eventually.
Still, even with my quiet faith that equality will prevail - I am perplexed.
Many people Obama’s camp rallied to vote on this historic Election Day, voted “yes for equality” at the top of the ticket, and “yes to discrimination” at the bottom of the ticket. Many of whom, know the plight of discrimination intimately. Must we learn each lesson of equality separately? Must we ourselves be discriminated against before we can rise up to fight for others?
If we’ve learned as a nation that separate is not equal, then why must we try and apply this broken logic again in pointing to civil unions as the solution to denying one group of citizens the right other citizens have. Equality does not have degrees; it either is or is not equal.
There will be a day when the children of this state look back and are amazed by the institutionalized inequality and discrimination that once existed in this land. Until that day, everyone who believes in equality must stand up and fight for it. This is not a gay issue this is a human rights issue.
[Originally Published on ChicoSol.org; Syndicated on Newamericamedia.com]
Monday, March 17, 2008
After All These Sunsets
Saturday, March 1, 2008
A Trademark on Morals
yes, that's right, if "Good is God's",
and, "God is Good"
- what about evil?
The word “altruism” emerged nearly two hundred years after the word “philanthropy.”
But, we can’t forget Machiavelli alone, influenced Hobbes, Locke, Rousseau, Mill, Kant, Hegel, Marx, Nietzsche and Dewey in regard to virtue – so, ‘tis a courtesy bow and we are moving on…
If Good is God’s, and we are of God, than we must be good; therefore free-will would not be free-will but ordained-will.
"O.k. you can go into the candy store and pick out one candy, absolutely any candy, but just one.” And, then after the child has thought long and hard about it, and has finally made a decision, saying to her,
“Oh, no sweetie, any candy but that one.”
Good is not God's alone even if God is Absolute Good.
Monday, February 25, 2008
To Awake by Love
Monday, February 18, 2008
Muse My Muse
Yet, a need to write with or without her always lingers...
Monday, October 29, 2007
Human Warming
By, Alexa Leigh Valavanis
Shortly after the 21st century arrived I accepted a job across the ocean, on the central coast of China. The destination was a booming metropolis called Shanghai. At the time, Thomas Friedman’s book, “The World is Flat” hadn’t been released, and there were only a couple of places amid the bustling Shanghainese vendors to buy Big Macs (McDonalds) and Caramel Macchiatos (Starbucks). The prime-time reality show “Survivor” wasn’t there yet, nor was the National Basketball Association’s preseason. In fact, when I landed in the ‘Paris of the East’ the Canadian dollar was as it always had been – behind ours, and our Nation was not at war.
It felt like a different time.
I was just leaving the coveted shelter of academia, with a bachelor’s degree in communications and a four-year career as a “Wildcat” point-guard under my belt. Up to that point in my life, I’d had very little time to experience other cultures, contemplate globalization, glean the realities of poverty, or examine the morality of actions – as individuals and world citizens.
That would change.
After I finished a year in China working for International Kindergartens I took to travel. I journeyed throughout Southeast Asia to villages in Vietnam, Laos and Thailand. In small doses I began to absorb the reality about the way most of the people on the planet lived – or survived. I became bound by the moral and ethical obligations I learned as a child, yet only then could begin to grasp. Throughout those first years abroad, I listened and learned about the abundance generated through simplicity and gratitude.
Asia broke wide-open a new hunger for humanity within me. I found my way to Central America where my heart was pulled to work. The lessons in this ancient Latin land echoed those of Asia yet were wrapped in very different colors, flavors and sounds. In Guatemala, I established a nonprofit foundation with a Nigerian doctor and three colleagues. Our foundation would strive to redefine the role, impact and sustainability of foreign-aid.
The highlands of Guatemala held me. The people overflowed with generosity and grace. During the next couple of years, I would travel throughout Nicaragua and El Salvador and be met with similar lessons in patience, compassion, and above all else, generosity.
The more I experienced there - the more I shared here. What resulted was an immense outpouring of compassion and eagerness from people who wanted to get engaged. When others heard about the challenges, injustices, or disasters facing their global neighbors they were moved to help; compelled by their internal compasses to do something.
Some people sent money while others prayed. Some people committed to our cause while others volunteered for new projects at home. But, overwhelmingly people met the needs with actions. It was then, that my belief in the power of philanthropy was solidified. Moreover, it was in these days that my understanding of human connectedness took root.
Today, we live in an interdependent world. One nation’s struggles deeply impact the rest of us. We are all vulnerable to changes in climate, the spread of disease and terrorist threats. We are more intertwined than ever before. Technology has bridged the natural divides and generated interconnectedness on a profound level.
We see each other. We hear each other. We impact each other.
Everyday I see evidence of this connectedness and the vast generosity of human-beings. People around the globe, and certainly here at home, are eager to help when they learn how they can make a difference. The statistics are staggering. Seventy percent of American households give some money to charity each year. In 2006, Americans gave almost two percent of our Gross Domestic Product (nearly $300 billion) to places of worship, emergency relief or to meet local community needs.
Philanthropy is becoming more and more hands on. People not only want to give, they want to do more of it. They want to share that experience with their family and friends. The great challenge is not in convincing people to give, but sharing with them a genuine opportunity to be effective.
Contemporary philanthropy is coining new phrases like ‘social entrepreneurship’ and ‘return on social investments’ for a reason. The standards for philanthropy are rising. Expectations are increasing. Transparency is a mandate, and accountably a must. Our billionaires are giving, our millionaires are giving, and the woman across the street that lived modestly her entire life - is giving to make our world better.
For the past three years I’ve had the privilege of working here, in Northern California as the CEO of the North Valley Community Foundation. I’ve witnessed firsthand the generosity of our local residents. Together, we are creating new ways to address the pressing social needs facing our communities. We are developing innovative strategies to mobilize resources to meet those needs, and achieve measured results. Our method is a hands-on, heart and mind approach to change. I am grateful for the opportunity to be part of it.
The more I experience and engage in philanthropy, the more inspired I become. It doesn’t matter what you call it or how you do it, there is no doubt that people are engaged in GIVING. Here and around the globe – people are GIVING. Perhaps, more than ever before, there is a movement of organized and effective generosity.
I call it, human warming!
[Published November 2007, UpState Business Journal]
The Standard
Tuesday, October 16, 2007
Tuesday, October 9, 2007
Another Form
a.leigh
Tuesday, October 2, 2007
Sunday, September 30, 2007
My Ocean, Your Island
Thursday, September 27, 2007
Monday, July 30, 2007
Inside that Moment
A. Leigh
Rocking Chairs
A. Leigh
Wednesday, July 25, 2007
Mind Immortal
If immortal then alas, there is a way to love you without end.
A.Leigh
Wednesday, July 18, 2007
No Stranger of Mine
A. Leigh
Thursday, July 5, 2007
A Thousand Times
A. Leigh
To Your Doorstep
Saturday, March 24, 2007
New Day
A. Leigh
Friday, February 23, 2007
Wednesday, February 7, 2007
Tuesday, January 16, 2007
Tuesday, January 2, 2007
Time
I awoke this morning to a pearly grey dawn. For a moment the breeze held her breath and I heard the massive ball of flames rise above the horizon. One of the many forgotten priviledges of waking up on this part of the globe is the uninterrupted passage of time. Our hours aren't filled with bombings and bloodshed, hungry cries and human tragedy. Our minutes free from the search for shelter, food and safety. As the ancient war in the Middle East sheds new colors of red, I pray for peace.
A. Leigh
GuateMaya
Gabriel Garcia Marquez once said, "The Latin American writer’s great problem is not to create fantasy from what is real, but to make Latin America’s reality believable."
On this day, I thought of Gabriel's words and understood for the first time its meaning.
A. Leigh
Eternal
The journey was a peaceful transition into the lazy afternoon, for even the bird's were slow to stir. So, you might image, when the unfamiliar stare appeared so abruptly in my path my mind was hesitant to digest the interruption.
His darkness frightened me. We stood there connected by the blade of his machete against my neck and the matching color of our eyes.
The quiet air held our breaths as we exchanged sudden movements atop the hillside. I heard distant screams and cries only later to realize they were my own.
It was a violent collision of our birthed realities. His dark skin carrying the burden of hunger and pain; my white skin reflecting all that was opposite his oppression.
Face to face, we stood divided.
Yet, I knew somehow, if either of us were to escape that dark abyss, we would be bound by light eternal.
A. Leigh
Without
A. Leigh
when an instant became infinity
A. Leigh
Mother's Womb
And so this journey began
a million sunrises before
my mother's womb,
when paved roads were dust
and cities - mudhuts.
Centuries before 'This',
and before 'That' too.
But please don't think for a moment
not even the lesser of a second,
that I might dress up words
and speak on such a matter
"Gracias a Dios"
I know the better.
So, let me return to the beginning
for that's how this story begins -
it was a million sunrises before my mother's womb,
and I can say one thing for certain
something, somewhere was born,
and it birthed another.
And another.
And somewhere on this path towards forever,
sometime between
(perhaps during Spring)
we each appeared.
Here.
Where this collective dream took form.
Today, on the shores of Lago De Atitlan.
A.Leigh
Fields of Green
In his dream, he walked for miles until he reached his village. It was here, where his wife and children worked to keep their modest hut, from tin-roof to dirt floor, clean and ready for papa’s return. He stepped onto the porch and the familiar smell of homemade tortillas and chicken soup dropped him to his knees. It had been too many days and nights of longing to let go of standing up. In the dream, his children wore clean clothing and smiles as they shared stories from school. He looked outside and noticed even the old avocado tree, which stood bent outside the kitchen window for decades, had a youthful sway. They ate and laughed, and carried on as the crescent moon begged for their attention. He told his family memories collected from the coffee fields; about the ripening fruits he named one-by-one in hopes their harvest would bring him home. They listened to their papa until the warm night bowed her head to dawn.
It was this sunrise which found him still, asleep beneath the coffee leaves, without his family or the youthful sway of the avocado tree. He looked up at the open sky, hung above Guatemala’s Highlands, and offered his daily promise to his wife and children. It was the promise of returning home with enough money for food and school for his babies - perhaps, a new life where they could welcome each sunrise together. Until then…he would work each day and hold them in his dreams each night.
Inspired by Juan Antonio – Coffee Field Worker in Fraijanes, Guatemala
A. Leigh
New Year
May you keep time by the songs you sing, and dance wild with the heavens and seas. May the open sky offer you tranquility and the white moon, rock you to sleep. May you rename the world with your grace and light, so you may be called 'day' and your lover the 'night'.
A. Leigh
Thirty-Three
As I breathe in Belize I relinquish the impetus to cling to familiar. Drifting here - thirty-three shades of green staring back at me through the bus window. The humidity reminding me I am alive. I can't say with any definitive certainty where I come from nor where I will arrive. The river bends around my fingers. The banana leaves and palm trees stand still against the sky, shouting 'Gracias A Dios".
I offer this prayer to the Caribbean sea...
A. Leigh
Ancient Love-Affair
The garden stretching around his six bedroom haven was itching for some attention. It was his greatest daily pleasure. First to the watering, then pruning, and perhaps today in preparation for the afternoon fiesta he would mow the lawn. Chicera, the 3-year-old mutt, greeted him with her usual good mood. And, Thursday officially arrived.
Dona Clemenzia awoke with the scent of her lover still in the air, after all these years still allowing him the right of passage to begin the day first. She loved laying there as he stumbled around the room trying not to disturb her. However, on the occasional morning when he stubbed a toe or dropped his comb she would secretly smile to herself. An occurrence which happened more and more frequently in recent years. But, today he dressed, blew kisses and left without a hitch. It was a special day and Clemenzia could hardly wait to start preparing for the party. The fiesta started at noon which gave her plenty of time to finish the tortillas and cook the chicken. Her eldest daughter, Elva, would be arriving any minute to help with the last minute details. Elva was her favorite daughter, although she knew it was an unspeakable secret - one even too sacred to offer her Florenzeo. Perhaps, it was because of Elva’s undaunted kindness and good intention. Even after finding herself ten years in the arms of a drunk husband and with the sole responsibility of feeding the children, her spirit remained unharmed. Unlike Clemenzia’s other children, who splashed perpetual judgment on their eldest sibling, Clemenzia understood her eldest daughter's spirit and found her heart inspiring.
Before long the only grandson, Kevin, was awake and kicking the football around the yard doing his best to drive Chicera insane. But, today was the kind of day when nothing could go wrong. The boy was anxious for his mom, Lucia, to arrive. As a ten year old, in the middle of a three-month vacation at grandma and grandpa’s house, it was all he could do to find entertainment. He spent most of his time waiting until his grandparents weren't looking and would climb the staircase off the second floor patio to the roof. It was here Kevin entered the world where he was one day a soldier in the Guatemalan army conquering the Spaniards, and the next day an eagle soaring over the vast and expansive mountaintops of Jocotenango. I was still asleep. It was my first night as a guest in the Agirra’s house and I had slept so soundly not even the afternoon could wake me. Fortunately, Kevin discovered the day before that I enjoyed the privacy of an early afternoon on the rooftop and knocked gently at my door. In simple spanish he whispered, “You must rise now to find alone time. My family will be arriving shortly in celebration of my grandfather’s birthday.” I was deeply grateful for the gentle alarm for I had not been told of the day’s events. In fact, I had only met the family two days prior and was still lost in appreciation of having an additional sleeping arrangement closer to Antigua.
Before long the house was overflowing with smells and sounds of Guatemalan goodness. I found my appetite for the food and family nearly unquenchable. Around the table conversation was simplified for my sake. We laughed, drank whiskey, ate spectacular food and celebrated Don Florenzeo’s day. As I secretly celebrated the romantic aroma of an ancient love-affair; one that grounded the entire family in togetherness.
A. Leigh
Destination: End of the Earth.
Following the rail. A new trail. Lightheaded from the high induced by the quick glance of scenery passing by my window and my mind. Leaving Shanghai behind. The fading flicker of city lights begins to blur. The edges of my windowsill fill with perfect snapshots of rural provinces where time seemingly stands still. Yet doesn't. The stillness is just an illusion that space creates without the pulsing metropolis and neon lights. Here, I write, three bunks above the train floor. Set to endure my first solo adventure. A three-day journey to the island of Hainan. The smell of strangers begins to permeate my senses. I inhale. I exhale. Knowing in a moment our existences and our eyes will collide. Criss-crossing like the tracks which lie ahead. A hand moves towards me. An open palm extending a silver treat and more importantly a welcome. Following the rail. A new trail. Certain of collecting many many silver wrapped treats to write home about.
Pearl
the yellow emperor was on his way back from k'un-lun mountains when he lost the dark pearl of tao. he sent knowledge to find it, but knowledge was unable to understand it. he sent distant vision, but distant vision was unable to see it. he sent eloquence, but eloquence was unable to describe it. finally he sent empty mind and empty mind returned with the pearl.
next time the sunsets in the southern china sky i will be on the island of hainan. there i will do my best to understand nothing, see nothing, explain nothing and absorb it all.
alexa leigh
Metal Mile
the locals like to throw a welcoming/initiation party of sorts for all the foreigners. held at the local health care clearance clinic. picture if you will: a world where color has been replaced with black/white/and a hint of pink. i strolled into a building that was designed with the flavor and comfort of a psychiatric ward in the late '40's. the only color seemed accidental and landed on the nurses outfits (cute little numbers that buttoned all the way up to the neck equip with a matching pink nurse’s hat). exact duplicates of the style worn by every nurse seen in any world war II flick ever made. in fact, they just might have been originals. i was shown - with some serious use of hand gestures - to strip down and put on a white psyche-issued robe. momentarily, visions of never leaving this place danced through my head. luckily, the inspection, i mean investigation, i mean appointment began…
i spent the entire morning going from room to room in a hallway modeled after the one used in "the shining".
first room, 112. immediately after entering the room a nurse grabs my arm and sits me in a metal swiveling chair, pulls out three disposal needles, and handles her business. she says nothing but “1-1-4”.
second stop, room 114. a completely dark room, with a small light coming from a small desk, shining on a small face, of a woman who embodied the term “china doll”. she says in english, "lay on back" and points to a small metal table with a small pillow. without warning she unties me (knowing i couldn't speak a bit of chinese anyway). then, grabs a small bottle of goo and pours about a half a cup on my tummy. i whisper to myself “not gonna find a baby in there” - she giggles. i think, “i knew it! they all do speak english. this is just some sick way of getting even with all the greasy foreigners who come in here and think they own the place." no baby found, moving on…
room three – 118. dr. sorrymusttouchyouology waits. as kindly as possible he checks my heart beat, abdomen, and random places to make sure i was intact. not without a few screws, i thought.
room four - 116. opened the door and there sitting behind a huge glass window was a boy who looked like he was about 15-years-old and watching the desk while the doctor stepped out. no luck. not today. not in this ward. he motioned me to a spot behind a massive x-ray machine (how do you say lead vest please - in chinese?) and gave me his best shot at saying "hold still" (or we will be here awhile…i have nothing to do for…oh...the next 50 years…i’m 15… kind of look). i stood still.
final stop. room 120. walked in and shimmied through a forest of white hanging curtains. i found an older chinese woman holding four metal clamps and three suction cups. no joke. i laid down and both arms were clamped, my ankles and suckers on my chest. she sat beside me at a machine that looked like a lie detector test, and hastily typed on an old blue box with a few keys. after readjusting my clamps a few times out printed a narrow form with an assortment of lines. she analyzed them with a metal tool. stamped a big APPROVED on my sheets. and, i was out.
i walked the long hallway (the metal mile) to the exist - and returned to the five-year-olds.
-lex
Seven-Second Freeze
‘tis chico, or valpo, chicago or new york, in long beach, australia, or even little oak park - imagine for a moment a world where terms like: right-of-way, yield, caution, and manners just do not apply.
as i walk to the front of shanghai hua yuan each morning four words dance through my head..."the seven-second-freeze". momentarily, however, my mind shifts from this current contemplation to the more pressing realization that i am one of a hundred city-goers desperately needing a cab. distracted temporarily i flag down the first baby-blue taxi i see. i get lucky. a driver pulls over and for a moment i can breathe. knowing soon i will be faced with the inevitable seven-second-freeze.
a.k.a. the intersection of liam hai lu and hu min lu.
the left hand turn into on-coming traffic. two full lanes of cars, buses and motorcycles coming from the front – and more bikers, brick-runners and speed-walkers than there are cars on the 101 freeway during rush hour, all moving in a single direction – towards me.
the only thing stopping me from burning sage and performing a "bumper-be-so-mighty" ritual right there in the backseat of the taxi is this simple seven second prayer, "to the shanghainese gods and goddesses of lucky long picky nails, in a sea of old tea bags, shockingly awful car freshener, and the chinese equivalent to greek worry beads dangling from the rearview mirror...please protect me."
i reach 8,
alexa leigh
Planned Destination
we stopped at a red light. on the corner i saw two little boys standing there tugging the arm of their mother. somehow the smaller son ended up on the ground behind his mom and she went tumbling over him - intertwined they laid on the ground. both the boys immediately started laughing ~~ hard! mom, less entertained, staggered to her feet fighting the urge to smile. she had, in fact, been standing there one moment and fallen to the ground with her hysterical sons a moment later.
still a bit flummoxed about my journey and inability to communicate, i glanced over at the driver to see if he had just witnessed the event. he had. we both started laughing hysterically, he pulled over and we just laughed. neither of us said a word - i paid him and got out. it was perfect, the moment was priceless, the connection was precious. realizing how simple laughter can squeak right past any political, social, cultural, economic, religious or racial difference.
i ended up two stores down from my planned destination.
-alexa leigh
No Eatty - Only Looky
my taste buds, gone. sure - go ahead and laugh - but this is no joke!!! i regret to say after numerous efforts full recovery is not an option. ate what looked like a yummy red pepper from the states (talking huge sucker - talking huge mistake) turned out to be the doorway to hell itself. just jumped right in and took a big ole' bite. it was good enough and as i mentioned i was super hungry so i finished the piece - when all the sudden shock sank in. what one might call a bit of a delayed reaction... my eyes started to water, broke into an immediate sweat (crazy fever sweat), meanwhile my lips were screaming bloody mary, and my heart began beating triple time...i of course reached for whatever was in sight. water was the closest liquid and as you might imagine terribly unhelpful. in fact, it seemed to intensify the taste bud tragedy, but nevertheless i was panicking... hi-ho hi-ho straight to the red wine I go, absolutely no help...grasping for food, praying anything would distract my head from popping off right there at the table..."red pepper no eatty only looky", says the waitress in an attempt to be comforting...nice try but can you bring me some MILK or a doctor please. they bring a real coconut that i proceed to bathe my mouth in for a hot second...still no relief. finally, i surrender and collapse...imagining the obituary that would be written at home:
the untimely death of alexa valavanis due to ingesting a hot pepper disgusted as a sweet pepper at irene's thai food in shanghai, china...
smiles,
alexa leigh
Field Trip
i was sitting with four five-year-olds...
dylon, a french native, speaks three languages fluently.
shide, a chinese girl born in india, speaks very little english.
sukey, just arrived here from thailand, speaks very good english, thai and chinese.
i asked the children, "what country do we live in? japan? india?"
sukey quite simply responded, "shanghai."
dylon (with his heavy french accent) said, "älexa, people in japan speak japanese and in china they speak chinese."
i responded, "wow, that is very good - but where do people speak english?"
"he replied (as if i were crazy), "ïn boston!"
Very Pretty
1) the traffic lights in china go from red to yellow to green to yellow to red
side note: you never know who is slowing down to stop or speeding up to go
2) the police officers don’t carry guns
side note: guess they assume if you are brought in you are as good as dead - why fuss with the mess of the middleman
3) cars park on the sidewalk...this is also the space for bikers AND pedestrians
side note: guess who gets nudged into the street to dodge the masses of motorcars
4) first authentic chinese-style dinner at my neighbors
main course: snails and fish head
side note: li yain sucked the first snail out of its shell and fed it to me as lao li inhaled the fish cheeks
5) waking up each morning to the perpetual ringing of a bell followed by a man shouting “bamboo for sale” in shanghai dialect
note to self: bamboo is not a hot commodity in our neighborhood and someone really ought to tell him
6) eating a sweet potato cooked in a garbage-can converted into a mobile stove (purchased from a man on the street chanting in broken bits of english – "tis or..gaaaan...ic"!)
side note: what constitutes organic in china? (it's being prepared in a trashcan for heaven’s sake)
7) arriving home during my first week in my new apartment and finding my landlord watching “when harry met sally” on my couch…
note to self: immediately ring qin zhang and ask her to assure her father - i am moved in
8) eating a bomb disgusted as a pepper at thai food
note to self: never trust the pretty ones
9) playing some locals in my neighborhood the tunes of miles davis, john coltrane and frank sinatra
note to self: learn to groove chinese-style immediately
10) fitting in only XL and XXL clothing
note to self: the woman here are tiny and i am certainly still a M in america
11) taking a taxi ride from home to work one morning and realizing i was 1 hour and 25 minutes further away from my destination
note to self: get a cell phone
12) at anytime..anywhere in the city..locals can be found roaming the streets decked out, from head to toe, in silk pajamas
note to self: try this sometime next week before it actually starts to snow
13) weekly tai ji lessons with a teacher who can only say in english "very smart"
note to self: book 2 or 3 lessons a week
14) weekly piano lessons with a teacher who can only say in english "very pretty"
note to self: book 5 or 6 lessons a week
cheers!!!
Deep Water Bay. Hong Kong.
in the early afternoon of my life... i've really just begun to understand appreciation...the way the moon must feel for night...the way the sun must feel for light... bending my senses... blending them carefully... so that i might hear a sunrise or taste the breeze... so that i might feel a voice or witness the scent of spring dance amongst the trees...appreciating the exquisite imagination of our creator... as each soul is treated to an authentic dish of wonders and despairs... sitting here... on these ever-changing shores...in the early afternoon of my life...i've really just begun to understand appreciation... as the ocean graces my ears with her perfect prose...with rhythm and emotion only she
can write...i hope...i pray... i might someday truly understand... the way life must cherish breath...the way eternity must cherish death... the way lovers from the beginning of time must cherish ever-after...with the deepest of appreciation...
alexa leigh
Sleepless in South Vietnam
the trishaw pulled up to my seaside guesthouse, in the fairly happenin' town of nha trang, nestled on the southern coast of vietnam it is north of saigon and south of danang. my ears had just been filled with broken english as my peddler described his father's death and his undeniable affection and appreciation for americans. an altogether different feeling then i've tasted anywhere else during my travels (china, thailand, and laos)."he fought with you during the american war...until he was captured and put in a prison for 7 years...when he returned home he was very, ummm, not-happy. i think you call it 'sad' and drank himself to death a few years later. i will not forget him though because he taught me english." moved by his story and many others stories i have heard from the trishaw peddlers *for those that don't know, a trishaw looks a little bit like a rickshaw but the peddler sits on an elevated bike-seat, pushing what appears to be a buggy, with a passenger inside. the passengers are of course first in line for contact with on-coming vehicles.* at any rate, i was leaving town so i paid the peddler, crammed any new purchases into my pack and headed for the minibus. the minibus is really just a horn on wheels, packed with locals, and scented with the delicate mixed fragrance of jasmine and nicotine. it is an open ride, meaning you can stop anywhere along the way, up or down the coast of vietnam, depending on its direction. tonight i was meant to backtrack a bit to a quiet village called mui ne. the minibus was to leave at 8pm. sitting in the lobby i could see and smell the scent of the east china sea in front of me. my trishaw driver and his friend, where still downstairs, and sat down to keep me company. with later reflection i suppose they probably had a much better understanding of vietnamese minibus scheduling. after 9pm we had become quite acquainted and i couldn't possibly force another melon seed in my mouth. by 9:30pm last nights bed was becoming extraordinarily enticing. however, my appetite for the sunshine allowed for a source of patience that travel in southeast asia has provided. interestingly enough and perhaps despite this experience, travel in southeast asia is incredibly easy. you can walk into almost any cafe'and arrange for travel by whatever means suits your palet - to even the remotest of destination - process your visa - and sip on a latte - for next to nothing in u.s. dollars. however, tonight trailing the heals of TET (the vietnamese new year...celebrated on the chinese new year) the bus was not only packed to the brim but extraordinarily late in coming. aaah, but it did arrive. we managed to fit in with a few folding chairs in the aisle for locals to occupy. this was exclusively due to the fact that mr. bon jour purchased two seats as was not going to have a small child sit on a mother's lap next to him. the day's overcast sky had cleared and the moon was well along her ecliptic path, creating a warm glow and gentle feeling. i have become extremely accustomed to bus travel and find myself taking great comfort in these journeys. snapshots of new lands pass by my window and running short stories of times past run through my head - of the romantic genre of course. on this trip everyone was bound for ho chi minh except my travel mate and me. we would be departing, with a little luck and a prayer, in mui ne around 2am. so i snuggled in for the ride. sitting next to me was a twenty-two year old from hanoi, accompanying a middle-age man from europe. the sex-trade here is quite complicated and perhaps better suited for another email. either way, i enjoyed her company and hearing bits and pieces of her stories. we pulled into the mui ne just right around 2am. there is only one paved road and multiple guesthouses to pick from. we stopped at the first one - fully booked. we stopped at the second one - fully booked. and so on and so on. etcetera, etcetera. by now it is nearly 3am. the minibus has since left and my friend and i are in search of any mosquito-less haven. knowing the sun would surely rise soon it was a matter of finding a resting spot where the local insects would not be dining. we literally stumbled up to a gate where a man assured us he had an empty group room where we could crash for five usd. we deliriously agreed. on the walk we were told there were no people, no toilet, no air-con. no problem we said. it's bedtime. bedtime for the four locals resting on the mattresses with no sheets and the screenless windows which provided a entrance for any flying insects. he hastily began to wake the staff and clear the space, when we graciously said, "no thank you, let them sleep. is there an office nearby? we'll pay same-same."
morning did arrive, and however sleepless the evening was, i was in south vietnam and loving it.
alexa leigh
Saigon
29. january. 2003
finding it difficult to breath here. the hot air laced with oppression and despair. saigon, not long removed from the wounds created by decades of war. more hurt than i’ve ever seen before. more pain than i’ll ever endure.
here - in saigon. i hear – in saigon, screams of small children as my eyes try to rationalize what I am witnessing. green suits and red-stars dressed up like men are yanking and dragging small children away from storefronts - no more than five-years-old. one child cradling an infant as a hopeless defense. their cries are deafening or falling on deaf ears, as we stand still. immobilized. paralyzed by shock, or fear, or just an unwillingness to care. as foreigner walks past in arms distance. one of the boys reaches out to stop the fight that loose change began - his fingertips slip off the foreigner’s skin. with grin, in stride, the officials move on. an australian sees only the end, as the girl being dragged around the corner falls to her knees pleading to be forgiven. forgotten. he takes off running in an attempt to do something. but, it's too late - they are already gone.
i've come to realize, after many weeks in south-east asia there will never be anything familiar about the face hunger leaves. there will never be anything numbing about witnessing this pain. it is more real than i might ever have imagined.
alexa leigh
Mui Ne.
valentine's day. 2003.
jas walked into the restaurant carrying with him the most contagious
smile. both of my black northface packs were draped around his thin but muscular 5'10 self. his golden brown vietnamese skin was just barely moist from the incredible heat. i, on the other hand, was sitting underneath a fan and sipping a pineapple juice, sweating profusely. "hi lex" he said, "i found you a room about 10 kilometers up the road, pretty cheap." the task of finding me a space and the completion of it created a confidence i had not yet seen in the 27- year-old. he showed up 7 days a week, in his peach button up shirt and black slacks, to work a 12 hour shift in the cyclo cafe. the restaurant was located in the the nicest resort in mui ne. at the end of the month he brought home 50 u.s. dollars - most of which went to his younger sister's schooling leaving a little for his unemployed father (mom left home when he was nine and they hadn't seen her since). i stuffed down my scrambled eggs and gulped the last of my juice. i thanked jas and walked to the curb to find a ride. on another morning the 10 kilometer walk would have been lovely but with my gear in paw i wanted a lift. now motorbike rides in vietnam can be one of two things. completely exhilarating or frightfully terrifying - depending entirely on the driver. often i find myself clinging to the back of a local guy who is weaving in and out of the daily traffic, which could be anything from trucks hauling bamboo to a family of water buffalo... cruising at 40 mph... cigarette in hand. the 12-year-old honda kickstart motorbike and matching 12-year-old driver pulled up. i jumped on. jas had arranged, with his friend at the song hao guesthouse, a room for me by the sea. the thatched hut was clean and discount provided was tucked in the staff quarters. i was just looking for a temporary break between dusk and dawn so the accommodations seemed perfect. the room itself was fascinating. in fact, it looked like it had fallen right out of the children's classic "where the wild things are!". the high ceiling created a spacious feel although the room was only large enough for two beds and a fan. hanging about three feet below the ceiling was a blanket of bamboo rods criss-crossing and creating hundreds of small triangles overhead. draped over the bamboo was a clear wire fishing net, decorated with red, green and yellow plastic floating devices. the bamboo ceiling provided two immediate feelings: wow, warm and cozy! followed more accurately by: wow, i hope that net is secure, if not, i am certain to wake up swimming in a frenzy-of-fish-net-panic. the matching sheets covered the twin beds in thousands of teeny yellow tweedy birds dancing around the english alphabet. and, a wire clothes line hung right above my head (just in case i had the itch to build a tent). i quickly checked the bathroom for running water and then scattered my day pack on to one of the beds - jumping into the other. finding it quite a ritual to unpack my half-read books, half-written postcards, and half-full water bottles. perhaps it's because it creates a disarray common with my travels or maybe i've just grown accustomed to the looks of kundre, tolkien, rinpoche, and theroux (or whomever the weekly authors are) staring back at me in their cream winter sweaters in front of their cabins in the swiss alp - creating an even more profound detachment from western civilization. either way, i was rather accustomed to the disarray and snuggled in to finish one of the $2 boot-legged books i had purchased that afternoon.
i know home is heavy now with the war looming. trusting that energy follows thought and praying endlessly for a peaceful solution.
alexa leigh
Luang Prabang. Laos.
january. ninth. two-thousand and three.
with goosebumps all over.
found myself without words in recent days.
thailand and laos have simply taken my breath away.
finding extraordinary everywhere...
in ancient buddhist temples. and hmong villages on mountain sides. in waterfalls. and tuk tuk rides. in elephants. and ritual with monks on new year's eve. in monkeys playing in trees. in boat rides to private islands. watching sunrises in white thai sands. kindness filling my hands. breakfast along the mekong. hide-and-seek with children on the street. touching ancient ruins. ages of reasons to trust simplicity. lao whiksey. countless smiles. miles and miles of mountains and rivers. endless excursions and adventures.
understanding there are so many ways to live on this planet. progress is just a perspective. we move so quickly just to find time to slow down again.
with goosebumps all over.
heading back to thailand tomorrow. will write again soon.
love to hear from each of you.
in heart and soul,
alexa leigh
Krabi. Thailand.
clinging to the fresh-baked fever-induced delusions fluttering through my head - i stumble into the festy rat infested guesthouse. incapable of making any rationale decisions i follow a small woman up a short staircase. now harboring the illusion that my $2.50 room will certainly hold the gateway to health and happiness a notable bounce was in step. peeking my head behind the small green door, with 207 etched in its stomach by way of butter knife, i did not see the golden gateway i'd envisioned. in fact, peeling puke-green paint and age-old wall stains gives me an immediate spell of dizziness...so i lay down. ah, a subtle distraction. a ceiling fan (as promised in the window downstairs.) i retreat from the fever and cold chills to watch the blades desperately attempt to cut through the jungle of humidity crowding my breathing space and quite frankly hogging my air. only to be jolted by a dreadful rumble in the tummy which undoubtedly will be accompanied by a bodily reaction of some sort. suspecting the customary guesthouse squat might not fair well i try not to move. now motionless in my puke-green cell i curl up with my blue elephant covered sarong and begin to rest. what are those unidentified shadows next to my bed? i am up in no time to investigate and consequently creating an unnecessary wave of nausea. just geckos chasing supper! i am back down for the count...only to wake a few hours later to a light pitter-patter across my chest...as the tail disappears into the wall.

